Camino Diary: En camino

We are blessed! Dublin Airport was quiet as a lamb, our Aer Lingus flight smooth and on time, our pension in Santiago de Compostela delightfully welcoming, and sun shone on the ancient stones of the cathedral as we sipped delicious Albariño from nearby Rias Baixas. Our first dinner was delicious: the pilgrims' life excellent so far!

Light mist greeted us next morning as we headed for the 7.30 Pilgrims' Mass at the resplendent cathedral, entering by the impressive Holy Door which is only opened during those years when St James' feast day (July 25) falls on a Sunday. This occurred last year, but thanks to the pandemic, 2022 has also been declared a Holy Year, or Jacobea.

The bus we had hoped to catch from Santiago to Valença in Portugal was overbooked, so we took a train south to Vigo and a taxi to Tui just across the Miño River from the famous fortified town. Our walk started on the narrow two-tier bridge (which carries infrequent trains on top, cars and pedestrians below), over into Portugal for a wander through Valença's cobbled streets, gaining the vital stamps on our Pilgrim Passports to qualify for our compostela at the end of the journey. Then we began our camino proper, back over the river and steeply up to Tui's C12 cathedral, sadly closed when we arrived.

From there we descended and left the border town, walking mainly on minor roads and woodland paths, very grateful for clouds and reviving breezes: the journey seemed to drag as the day wore on, and the feet protested! But there were remarkably few walkers, and we were able to enjoy our solitude. My phone registered a very surprising total of 24 kms when we finally reached our hotel at 6.30. The temporal luxury of a reviving bath seemed more vital than the plenary indulgence granted at Santiago Cathedral's Porta Santa!

Our 55th anniversary day promises fewer miles and happier feet. Watch this space.