Life in the dorms

Well, I´m back at the cool and friendly library, escaping the swelltering heat outside, while Frank navigates the bus from Santiago. This morning I left my rather upper-class privately run pension where I shared a big dorm with about 10 others : well worth the 9 euro. Up til this it has been usually voluntarily run albergues and the night before last was spent in a cavernous cell with 45 bunk beds (i.e. 90 bodies!): I arrived about 6.30 to get one of the last, thankfully on the lower level! This was at the famous Benedictine Monastery of Samos, a morning´s walk from Sarria, where pilgrims have been welcomed for centuries. Situated in a lush valley the walk in and out is tortuous and tough - but wonderfully sheltered in oak woodlands and the cooling river races along most of the path in the lower reaches.

The Samos dorm has the advantage of being decorated with the most delightful murals in the style of the Four Masters, which distracts one a bit from the sheer overcrowding; to my right I was conjoined with a hitherto unknown Italian so was careful to tuck my blanket well into my side of the bunk. Above me was one of the champion snorers of the camino, and during the night he was joined by many many others. On my left was the door to the communal loos and showers and all through the night there were obviously comings and goings, but I hung my silk kimono up as a curtain against the light, and with my back to my Italian companion and earplugs firmly in place I had an excellent night´s sleep. It´amazing what a long hard walk can do for one´s ability to switch off from one´s surroundings!

The best albergue so far was built into the wall surrounding a glorious church, and was a single story high with tiny rooms housing just two beds and two generous cupboards - quite a luxury. However, in wet weather it would be quite damp getting to the centrally placed facilities. Here I was billeted with a lovely Austrian girl whom I have met on and off since. We revelled in the splendour as we had both arrived quite late and were thrilled to find space. The relentless walkers who leave at 5.00 a.m. do tend to bag the best spots, but for some of us that is just too much competition - like towels by the poolside! There were post-wedding photos in progress in the rococo church interior, and Mary Black was singing one of my favourite songs, so it was a clear signal to enter and enjoy the painting Thirza had told me to look out for : a card-playing baby Jesus! It must be unique. The style and flower arrangements at the church were stunning - quite a contrast to the road-weary pilgrims milling around for a glimpse at the bride!

Another small albergue was so lovely and welcoming, with cosy wooden beds and long sunny garden, and the first Irishman I had met since day 2, that half way to my intended destination I turned around and went back to it (sort of cheating as I thereby avoided the worst of the hill) and next day caught a bus to Pedrafita do Cebreiro, the birthplace of the man who instigated the yellow arrows along all the paths to Santiago. He has done a huge service to thousands. It was the Dia de las Letras in Galicia, an annual celebration of Gallego literature. I still had a long 4km slog uphill to O Cebreiro, but feel I have to confess to a shortcut of about 10km!

The local municipal albergue here in Sarria is closed for two days for fumigation ("cleaning", I was told!) and this put a lot of pressure on the privately-owned places, so I was lucky yesterday afternoon, having clambered up in the sweltering heat to the old centre and finding three places in a row full, to have the third place just then get a cancellation! Lots of people are pre-booking beds at this stage, as it is getting quite crowded. Sarria is one of the principal staging points for the final 120 km to Santiago. The local pilgrims´ information office is staffed by volunteers, one of them from Hollywood, Co. Down, so John Malone gave me all the lowdown yesterday and I am armed with all the phone numbers I need. It takes the spontaneity away, but is probably best to have a guaranteed bed at the end of a hot day!

My time is almost up so hopefully this has given some flavour of life on the road. There are some more tough bits to go, but it will be with Frank´s company and hopefully he will get to meet some of the marvellous people who have crossed my path in the last two weeks. Our arrival time in Santiago may be the 25th or 26th : it is too hot for speed at present so we will leave it in the lap of the gods of the Camino. Sorry again for the lack of pictures but when I get home and get onto the technical members of the family there should be some evidence online!

Don´t know where next blog will come from : watch this space! Hasta la proxima and love and blessings to you all!