Now we are two!

It has been so wonderful having Frank´s company for the last few days, particularly as the weather has been incredibly hot, and he walks at a faster pace than I do (his rucksack weighs less, too!) so he has been able to forge ahead and book beds in the various albergues along the way, and has spared me sleeping with any other Italians! The going has been tough with many hills and river valleys to negotiate, rough tracks and a lot of roadside paths without shade, so we thought that our arrival by the dam at Portomarin would be a wonderful opportunity to swim. Sadly, it was not to be so as it did not match up to the quality of Shell Hole, and we made do with dorm showers instead.

We did a tough 21km the next day as we felt the 25 intended was just too much in the heat, and in the middle of the countryside near a tiny 10-person hostel found a "playa" with river fed swimming pool - but the pool was empty, so we made do with the shallow stream which fed into it. It was like heaven, and walking without packs is such a joy! Last night was probably one of the stranger of the albergues: a makeshift settup in a huge exhibition centre while the municipal hostel is being refurbished. It was fairly basic, but as usual we slept pretty well and coped with the facilities. After mass we met up with a delightful seventy-year-old with flowing beard who brought us to hear him playing the Gallecian bagpipes - his grandfather apparently was a very famous maestro in these parts. We were entertained with some lovely pieces with Irish and Welsh inspiration - and were presented us with two old recordings which Frank has nobly added to his load!

Tonight we are in a delightful hotel on the edge of Arzua, the second last stage before Santiago. We are very tempted to shorten the next haul by catching a local bus part of the way, but will see how we are feeling in the morning. There has been heavy rain which has freshened everything, and makes the going so much easier. And lunch yesterday was a fantastic feed of pulpo gallego (the famous stewed octopus) in a thronged pulperia in Melide: enough solid food and local wine to keep us going for days. Sunday lunch is an even bigger thing in these parts than at home.

There are lots of Irish people on the Camino at this point, and numbers generally have hugely increased since Sarria, as it is a convenient 120km from Santiago. Many have their baggage delivered ahead, and cannot understand at all why we would not! Having taken a lay day I have missed out on some of the earlier acquaintances but will more than likely meet up with them again once we reach the goal. We will probably walk a few extra miles at Finisterre and make up for any loss tomorrow!

Will hopefully put finishing touches to the blog once I get back home. Thanks again for all the support and good wishes. We are keeping you all in our hearts and in our feet! Slan agas beannacht! Buen camino!

B&F